Go West

'West is best'...or so the locals allege. This was an opportunity to judge for ourselves. One thing is for sure, five days on West Falkland in the middle of winter is in sharp contrast to our other recent trips involving hot climates. The West is less inhabited than the East with virtually no development at all: no petrol station, supermarket, pub, cafe, tarmac roads or streetlights. Just oodles of scenery and abundant wildlife.

We took the ferry to Port Howard (a two hour crossing) and stayed one night in the Lodge there, which was very comfortable and provided full meals. Then we headed out into the unknown, maps at my feet and watched the caracaras circling on the next ridge. Then, as if it was pre-ordained by some greater power, Pet Shop Boys came on the radio. Not normally one to find song lyrics befitting, these had a certain poignancy:

(Together) We will go our way (Together) We will leave someday (Together) Your hand in my hands (Together) We will make our plans

(Together) We will fly so high (Together) Tell all our friends goodbye (Together) We will start life new (Together) This is what we'll do

(Go West) Life is peaceful there (Go West) In the open air (Go West) Where the skies are blue (Go West) This is what we're gonna do

(Together) We will love the beach (Together) We will learn and teach (Together) Change our pace of life (Together) We will work and strive

(I love you) I know you love me (I want you) How could I disagree? (So that's why) I make no protest (When you say) You will do the rest

(Go West) Sun in wintertime (Go West) We will do just fine (Go West) Where the skies are blue (Go West) this is what we're gonna do

There where the air is free We'll be (We'll be) what we want to be Now if we make a stand We'll find (We'll find) our promised land

(I know that) There are many ways (To live there) In the sun or shade (Together) We will find a place (To settle) Where there's so much space

(Without rush) And the pace back east (The hustling) Rustling just to feed (I know I'm) Ready to leave too (So that's what) We are gonna do

(Life is peaceful there) Go West (In the open air) Go West (Baby, you and me) Go West (This is our destiny)

We spent the next three nights in the Top Dip Shanty, which was considerably 'rustic'. No running water, no electricity and utterly enchanting. I was put in mind of ancestors who emigrated to Canada with great pioneering spirit and with no modern contrivances.

Top Dip has a peat stove and hearth replete with goose wing for dusting and lots of colourful rugs and throws for charm. On a practical note it had torches and a chemical toilet, but this didn't detract from the romance. Big Man did a great job of frequent fire fettling and apart from coughing and spluttering at the initial waft of smoke from the peat turves, it kept us pretty cosy. Woozles loved mastering the ladder up and down from the top bunk and playing with some retro toys (new to her!).

The weather was fairly brutal, snowing every day we stayed in the shanty. However we did venture out in the Defender to Hill Cove (has the only woodland in the archipelago), where we had the shortest picnic known to man and the next day to Fox Bay, a rather industrial port settlement where we had hot chocolate and biscuits overlooking the shore birds at the harbour.

Our hostess at the nearby farmhouse was incredibly welcoming (she doesn't get many people to talk to!) and, wait for it, used to live in Walsden. Small world or what?

The last morning was cool and clear so I had a lovely walk along the riverbank while the other two holed up in the warm. I reached a rickety bridge next to an old settlement, tried not to slip in the river on icy rocks, peered at ferns and took endless photographs.

We returned to Port Howard by way of a pitstop to view remains of a downed Argentinian aircraft

and to coo at myriad rainbows. We didn't linger long with feet resembling blocks of ice and the promise of carpeted accommodation and a hot shower tempting us back rather severely!

Late that afternoon I enjoyed another poke along the shoreline collecting fragments of old ceramics with future mosaics in mind, got a few snaps of the rather tame night heron on watch for fish by the bridge and then settled back in for the night before our ferry home.

On deck in the biting wind I watched dolphins porpoising at the bows, rock shags circling overhead and petrels soaring over the stern. Upon returning to East Falkland it was equally snowy and we continued promptly home to warm our cockles and check on the chooks. Woozles was sad that our adventure was over but soon rallied with the promise of craft activities, snacks and children's tv. The ability to switch on electric lights was not going unnoticed at this point!