Monday 12 December 2011

Busy busy busy!

Hardly had time to lift my fingers to the keyboard lately, things are so frantic. It seems unfortunate to me that Christmas and all the social activities that go with it are during the busiest time of year for wildlife and for construction in the southern hemisphere, so our household is currently in a state of frenzy not seen since the young lady came into the world.

All good though.

Family first. Grandma is visiting and so I have been trying to show her a fun time. We have already been around the base looking at ponds and grasslands with her early present of a new fold-out ID guide to Falklands feathered friends, took a boat trip from the harbour where we saw dolphins and a selection of birdlife and there is a lot else planned.

Big Man is still working hard and preparing to yomp across the island this week in boots to raise money for charity - http://www.soldierscharity.org/news/2011/12/12/sappers-slog-retraces-falklands-journey-of-british-forces
Thankfully Movember is now a thing of the past and facial hair is off the menu once more!

Madamoiselle is developing beautifully and has entered a more peaceful phase. She is going to be 3 soon and eligible for a.m. preschool sessions which will be a wrench, mainly for me. If her current love of preschool is anything to go by, she'll love it. Sniff.

So as for me, time to gestate my new project, the book. Recently turned out there could be funding so I am pressing on with photographing plants at every turn.

Also been having spanish lessons ahead of our Chile holiday so that instead of ordering diesel (gasoleo) in a restaurant, I can try lemonade (gaseosa) to drink instead!

The polytunnel continues to be a raving success, lots of people have massive amounts of fresh produce to eat; lettuce, courgettes, peas, carrots and more almost ready for harvest.

All is not so rosy in the hen house however, one of the black birds (still can't tell them apart *blushes*) is broody and has been hiding out under the house (the houses are slightly raised on concrete pillars) so as I have not seen her for a little while I am getting worried. Advice on a postcard please. Already tried torchlight and a foray with a super-soaker (!) to no avail.

Most likely thats all for now - will be back to chirp more in 2012!

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

xxx

Friday 18 November 2011

Falklands: Fact or Fiction?

Since the war in 1982 there have existed a few myths and misconceptions about the Falkland Islands, probably due to the distance and lack of communication for many years.

I would like to bust some of the myths and confirm some of the truths right now, starting with 7 popular assertions. See how you score!


Statement # 1. The Falkland Islands are found somewhere off the coast of Scotland.




FICTION. They are located off the coast of South America in the South Atlantic Ocean.



Statement # 2. Penguins comically fall over backwards trying to crane their heads upwards when fighter jets fly low over their colonies.




FICTION. They do no such thing.



Statement # 3. There is only one newspaper on the islands, called the Penguin News.



FACT. The Penguin News is published weekly and contains the usual news and soundbites and also anything locals want to share with the rest of the community, personal or trivial!




Statement # 4. All Argentinians believe the islands belong to them and want to come and reclaim the territory for themselves.





PARTLY TRUE. Thorny but the way it appears to me is that there are those Argentinians who believe that the islands should fall within Argentinian government and the current leader is of that ilk and those who have been misguidedly led to think that the locals all want to be Argentinian and are being oppressed. However there are plenty of friendly supporters too.




Statement # 5. The place is wall-to-wall penguins and residents are almost tripping over them on a daily basis.





FICTION. While there are many healthy-sized colonies of several species of penguin on the islands, it can take some arduous off-road driving, hiking or travel by helicopter to view them.




Statement # 6. There is nothing else to do on the Falklands except get drunk and all the locals revel in this.




FICTION. Although alcohol is cheap and entertainment is naturally more limited than in the UK, recent efforts by senior staff on the military base have led to a reduction in late hours drinking and anti-social behaviour (also known as 'fun') and the bars in Stanley keep closing at odd times preventing a decent all-dayer or lock-in. Parties of a frisky nature do still occur, not often including us old fogies with kids of course, but it is not quite the scene it might once have been.




Statement # 7. The Falklands are within the Antarctic convergence and are often bathed in snow and sub-zero temperatures, with an overall climate much colder than the UK.




FICTION. The islands are the same distance from the south pole as London is from the North Pole so the climate is broadly similar. However, the effect is moderated by the presence of a LOT of wind, which cools the maxium temperature, blows the bejeesus out of people on average one day a fortnight and often whips away the clouds, leaving a bright and sunny overall experience.

Monday 7 November 2011

Reflecting on the little differences

We are fast approaching the halfway point in our stay here in the Falklands so I have written down a few of the things that make life different out here.


Things I miss:


Family and friends
Wind-free walks
Decent shops
Woodland trees
Fresh fruit and veg
Unlimited internet
Playing hockey
Fresh milk
Pub beer gardens
Beautiful British landscapes
Chippy tea
Sky +
Organic poultry
Guaranteed posting dates
A non-ulcerated mouth
Reading proper newspapers and magazines within 2 weeks of publication


Things I don't miss:


Rain
Crime and fear of crime
Certain supermarkets
Traffic and motorways
Rushing about
Working too hard
Stairs
Cars as status symbols
Paying for parking
Traffic wardens
Doorstep sellers
Anonymity and thoughtlessness of general British public

Things that will take some getting used to when we go back:


No-one acknowledging as you drive by ('Falkland Finger')
Roundabouts
Driving in lanes
Bridges
Trees
Humidity
Multi-storey car parks
Shops being open 24 hours
Being able to order takeaway food
Pubs and cafes without boxes of toys
Going round supermarkets without child-sized trolleys
Hearing neighbour's noise and not the roar of aircraft
People (hopefully) coming to visit and it costing less than £2000!

Saturday 5 November 2011

Freebies

Just a little note to add that from 4th November 2011 for a month, all parcels under 2 kg are free to send to us. Blueys in hard copy (available from post offices) and e-blueys, which get printed out at the destination and are found at www.ebluey.com are also free to send to us at this address.

Tuesday 25 October 2011

Tantrums, tears and tiaras

Ok that's probably enough alliteration to last throughout the next century so I'll leave it at that!

Suffice to say that the wee girl has been going through a developmental leap which has caused us to have to make a few adjustments in our response to her. The main points of struggle have been bathtime and bedtime, leaving playgroups and wearing a certain pink and white dress, potentially all day every day if she had her way.

We now seem to be almost on the far side of this phase (today's double-dose dress-distress notwithstanding) and it is amazing to see how she has developed so I can only assume it was brain related, like most of her other nightmarish periods (6 weeks old growth spurt springs to mind!).

Her latest feats include: drawing a character with a face complete with eyes, ears, hair, mouth, nose and legs; getting stuck into playdough for over an hour and a half; unpacking a little buddha present for His Nibs and putting it on the shelf next to the other buddha without remark; and asking me what shape the polytunnel is - leaving me flummoxed (semi-circle in 3D / half a cylinder / answers on a postcard!!!).

Thursday 20 October 2011

Spring has sprung!

Someone up there has flung the giant celestial switch back so spring has now sprung! Lambs are gambolling about, we have blue skies, cool breeze, some spring flowers a bit like crocuses called pale maidens and my mood has lifted tremendously. Need to lose a bit of weight and get active and enjoy the penguin-spotting season to the full!

Tuesday 4 October 2011

Toddlers, tyres and typhoons

This week saw an epic outing which left the Monkey and I a tad tired but it was worth it. On Monday she was invited to little Johnny's birthday trip. I helped out with arrangements and took my allotted gaggle of preschoolers giggling and cavorting up to the runway in convoy behind the first car of tots and a military Land Rover. We had to stop to check tyres for debris before driving on the runway proper, which proved rather fiddly as our tyres with narrow tread held umpteen tiny shards of gravel and the chap escorting us conscientiously felt duty bound to remove them all himself. (I was amused to tell Him Indoors later that his car tyres had been serviced by a Squadron Leader).

Some 25 minutes later we proceeded round the airfield to the hangar housing a typhoon, which in case you don't know is a comparatively small, grey aeroplane with a pointy snout that can travel extremely fast, does almost vertical take-off and makes a LOT of noise whilst doing so. [For example, today I was on the phone and had to stop speaking for some time while a typhoon took off as it was pointless trying to say a word].

It was an interesting experience at the hangar. We went up a steep ladder to have a look in the moderately sized cockpit replete with an abundance of small technical-looking buttons, noting particularly the yellow and black handle between the legs (ejector) and lack of cupholders. Found out that each typhoon carries enough fuel for either 3 and a half hours flying or 12 minutes (!), depending how economically it is flown. Back in the locker room we were shown the pilot's helmet, night-vision goggles and anti-G-Force suit which inflates to counteract the movement of blood away from the head.

At the conclusion of the tour I was pleasantly surprised to find a ladies toilet within the building and further chuffed to be sent away with loads of crisps and chocolate bars ('we are all on a diet you see').

Kelly McGillis eat your heart out.

Wednesday 28 September 2011

Back in the Homeland

Just enjoyed a six-week trip back to the UK and saw a lot of friends and family. Sadly we didn't get to see everyone, but it was important to have some time at leisure too as well as revisiting all the motorways!

My first impressions on arriving back were of warmth, not surprising really when we were fleeing the winter, and of the lovely mature broadleaf trees dotted around the car park. It was also a humid August day, which is something not often encountered in such a windy spot.

Once we got onto the motorway, the traffic did seem a bit faster than I was used to, 80 mph rather than 40. It was the bridges though that caught the monkey's eye as large motorway bridges had not featured in her life for the previous 7 months, this at least gave us an activity to pass the journey up to the Midlands.

The next day I hit the shops to get my retail 'fix'. I must say everything did seem easier somehow with abundant cash points, retail variety and choice, many bargains to be had, buses and taxi's on every corner and so on. Busy though in town centres which felt overwhelming at times.

Over the course of the trip we gorged on salads and fruits of the season, surprising friends and relatives more accustomed to us choosing stodgy unhealthy junk when dining out!

We had a good holiday although it was very mixed with plenty of rain, much more than the Falklands although weather isn't something it is ever wise to brag about here!

Our journey back was thankfully punctual and uneventful with lots of space on the plane so we could stretch out.

We arrived back to a fierce wind and intermittent snow. The cock-cock-doo-doots were glad of some attention and luckily are laying again after a short break (pining for us no doubt). Spring is round the corner and I am busy planning trips out around the island for the summer ahead so I can bore everyone with photo's in the future!

Friday 29 July 2011

Feelings of frustration

cabin fever 
–noun
a state characterised by anxiety, restlessness, and boredom, arising from a prolonged stay in a remote or confined place.

After 7 months living fairly happily in our green wooden house in the Falkland Islands, I am ready for a change of scenery. The last few attempts I have made to get on trips have all been thwarted for a number of reasons and being the middle of winter the options were already pretty limited. Before we moved here I was used to being independent and footloose. Now, any trip out is a big undertaking depending on the weather, landowner, transport, fuel, state of alert on base and so on.

So our flight home is booked and packing is underway - civilisation, strawberries and sunshine here we come!!!

Tuesday 5 July 2011

Words on Weaning

My baby girl weaned last week at the age of 28 months.

It has been a long and winding road for us but also a beautiful journey of togetherness. I will miss every moment now we are done.

For me, breastfeeding was not a choice, it was something I was destined to do, as family have done before me, as long as the body was willing.

From the first feed in hospital when the midwife popped her on and she looked up at me with dark blue eyes, my soul was bared and a connection was made.

Wean Me Gently

I know I look so big to you,
Maybe I seem too big for the needs I have.
But no matter how big we get,
We still have needs that are important to us.

I know that our relationship is growing and changing,
But I still need you. I need your warmth and closeness,
Especially at the end of the day
When we snuggle up in bed.

Please don't get too busy for us to nurse.
I know you think I can be patient,
Or find something to take the place of a nursing -
A book, a glass of something,
But nothing can take your place when I need you.

Sometimes just cuddling with you,
Having you near me is enough.
I guess I am growing and becoming independent,
But please be there.

This bond we have is so strong and so important to me,
Please don't break it abruptly.
Wean me gently,
Because I am your mother,
And my heart is tender.

~ Cathy Cardall

Sunday 26 June 2011

Midwinter missive

Well I have barely had chance to write anything this last month, due to a busy visit from Grandma and various other lame excuses.

Winter is now upon us here in the South Atlantic and we have had one main snowfall bringing a covering of about 3 or 4 inches and one major wind storm damaging one of the buildings here on base. Generally though the weather has been pretty benign and not unlike a UK winter. In between domestic and community activities I have been helping out with a habitat survey of the base, an unpaid endeavour to keep my hand in and help them achieve some understanding of which areas might be of interest conservation-wise and where invasive species might be a problem. The families' polytunnel is now assembled and internal plots have been allocated. We are now starting to furnish it with tables and growbags in readiness for the next growing season.

The Chilean volcano has produced an ash cloud which meant the MOD is nervous about flying the usual twice weekly airbridge, as the planes only have 2 engines. Unpredictable Antarctic weather currents make it difficult to forecast when a window in the ash is large enough to fly down here, turn it all around and fly back again, a process that takes up to 24 hours. Because of the disruption we went 2 weeks without post and access to fresh fruit although we managed to stave off boredom and scurvy with a trip to the capital for the midwinter swim when Big Man joined other lunatics for a dash into the icy surf, and then pretty much straight out again. The atmosphere on the beach was jolly and convivial, with bonfires raging in oil drums and hot food stands. Needless to say the military personnel here on short tours made up a large element of the numbers, as presumably locals all did it and got the t-shirt (literally) many moons before.

Our diet has become a little less healthy what with the lack of fresh produce but we are managing to provide enough fruit and veg from frozen and tinned. Retro puddings are often on the menu in our house; jelly with tinned peaches and evaporated milk for example!

The winter solstice (shortest day/longest night) 21st June began with a happy morning in our house as I realised the monkey had slept her first 12 hour stretch without assistance. It was a beautiful sunrise as if almost to mark the occasion.

A plane finally came in Thursday this week bringing fresh supplies and post, as expected the families shop was then reminsicent of Moscow circa 1983 with an undercurrent of grim determination and a long queue. It was a timely arrival though as this week a few people celebrated 'FIXmas' - a midwinter celebration to help us through the long nights and dark mornings. Several parcels arrived ('ho ho ho') bringing toddler craft materials and even a few toys for me. We were invited to a neighbour's house for a turkey buffet and drinks. It was even approaching a white FIXmas with a light coating of frost on the ground in the morning.

Monday 2 May 2011

Falklands Fayre

Fresh produce is scarce on the islands as although it is possible to grow things in sheltered areas and under cover, the growing season is short and certain things cannot be established such as fruit trees. They are not able to be pollinated as the wind blows the flowers and pollen away immediately and there are very few insects around.

The families here are reliant on 300 kg of fruit and veg coming on the plane each week and old onions and manky potatoes off the ship.

Other vegetables are often available in Stanley but at a cost. It is over £1.50 for half a bunch of celery and where the bunch has been bisected invariably there are brown bits which leads me to not bother.

When we first arrived and were stocking up on basics I was looking at jars of honey; it was £3.50 in the main supermarket so I walked on... it was £4 in the small store so I walked on. Then I found a plastic squeezy bottle for £2 and felt elated at my bargainous purchase.

Our price record however relates to bananas. They come in each week on the flight but not very many. There is an informal policy to only take what each family needs so childless couples taking 2 bunches are frowned upon. Well one week I was busy in the garden and didn't notice time had slipped by and I had missed the opening of the Families Shop. I went up anyway, forty minutes late and no bananas were left. I decided we could live a week without them, even though they make the perfect toddler snack. Then midweek Big Man was in town with work and dropped by the supermarket. Wanting to provide for his family he proudly announced he had got a bunch of six bananas when he returned home. I was pleased til I noticed the price sticker: £6.04.

Frozen stuff is plentiful but most of it is from cheaper brands so things like chicken in particular are not great quality. Contrast to the last house where fresh organic Bramley apples dropped onto our lawn, here I am making crumbles with Bramleys in a tin that have travelled 8,000 miles. However in the spirit of making do and mend most people manage fine and have adopted a more frugal approach to food that would be good to see back in the UK. A jar of pesto lasted us for a pasta meal, three toasties with mozzarella, two lots of salad dressing and some left over. Having the use of a chest freezer, breadmaker and yoghurt maker helps enormously too.

I have adopted available ingredients and come up with the following dishes - quorn korma; quorn and spinach pie with puff pastry; quorn thai curry; teaberry sundae (delicious berries acquired from the mountainside combined with going-out-of-date smashed up biscuits from the Naafi and some ice cream); diddle dee berry, blackcurrant and apple crumble.

On the plus side, alcohol and red meat are cheap and easily available. Yes, the rates of bowel cancer are astrononomical but people are oddly serene.

Sunday 17 April 2011

Seabird Conservation

On holiday on Ascension Island we were lucky enough to witness the threatened green turtles making their way back to the sea after laying eggs on Long Beach, first thing in the morning.

Later that day at English Bay I spotted a turtle hatchling next to the rocks halfway down the beach. At first sight it appeared to be stuck so I decided to help it to the sea.

I popped it at the edge of the water and it started swimming. It had one slightly gammy flipper so wasn't making great progress across the pounding Atlantic rollers. I watched as the poor wee thing tossed and turned in the breaking surf.

As I watched the little black outline inch its way closer to the open sea a seabird flew straight down, picked it up, flew back up a few feet, then swallowed it whole!

Mortified, I consulted my bird book to find that the predator was a frigatebird, whose conservation status is also threatened.

Phew!

Monday 21 March 2011

Natural Selection

Apparently Charles Darwin was not massively taken with these windswept islands when he came to visit but there are plenty of creatures to see.

Here are some of my wildlife encounters so far:

Magellenic penguin


Variable hawk

Turkey vulture


Upland goose

Sealion

Gentoo penguin colony


Gentoo penguin in pond



Rockhopper penguin - a favourite!



Elephant seal


Two banded plover


Tussac bird


Gentoo penguin portrait

Tuesday 8 March 2011

Habituation

We've now been here seven weeks and seem to be part of the fixtures and fittings. I'm already involved with Mums n Tots, the families forum, conservation group and for now that is plenty. Our weekly routine has evolved into something manageable for all of us although Big Man has an ever-increasing workload, something his predecessor warned him about.

Our bungalow is located in one of five or six roads provided for families. It is a definite benefit not having stairs with a toddler in tow although she did fall out of the one step that leads into the conservatory twice in the first fortnight assuming the french window was shut and wanting to slam her hands on it. Oops.

It is a ten-minute walk or so to the amenities so as long as the weather is clement we are able to avoid using the car, at least so far while it has been summer. The play park is round the corner and the monkey has already mastered the smaller play equipment steps, tunnel, chain walk and slides as well as climbing onto the rocking animals. She also likes to hang out underneath the larger frames and play 'shops' with me, which is great fun, for the first two minutes at least!

Our garden is small but we are looking into getting hens, they are popular with families here as the egg supply is so dire and foxes are not present. Supplies of fresh produce in the shop are quickly sold out until the next delivery from UK
so in a step towards self-sufficiency I have already established the following in pots/grow bags/containers indoors: cut-n-come-again lettuce, tomatoes, carrots, potatoes, peppers, parsley, courgettes and garlic. It is a boon being able to garden without fear of slugs and other pestilential creatures.

Our shipping is finally due to arrive this weekend and that will be a relief, I have missed having a blender, our Dyson, my hair straighteners (although in the wind one might ask 'what's the point?'!), her toddler furniture and toys, our photo's, our bedlinen and the rest of my clothes and shoes.

Monday 7 March 2011

Sunsets

A few of the sunsets viewed from our back doorstep ...



Tuesday 1 March 2011

Acclimatisation

Our arrival in the southern hemisphere was slap bang in the middle of the austral summer, so we were catapulted from the darkest time of year to very strong sunlight and long days.

I had been told that the climate would be windy and similar to northern parts of the UK but with more hours of sunshine overall.

Our first impressions were of cool, swirling drizzle as we headed to our new abode in the early hours of the morning.

Upon setting out later in the day to explore, the wind had gathered speed and while we undertook the short, ten-minute or so walk to the amenities, we were buffeted constantly and we were very glad to reach the corridor that is provided between the facilities, presumably for this very purpose. Once out of the wind however, the winter clothes we were sporting from the UK made us hot and bothered and coupled with tiredness we quickly began to bicker.

Everyone we meet on that first day tells us how we missed glorious weather the week before; 'the sun was cracking the flags' 'we were all wearing summer clothes' etc etc etc. Seems we missed the summer. Typical!

After the first couple of days we seemed to understand the weather a bit better and be able to dress for it more consistently. Most folk opt for casual attire with jeans, t-shirt and hoodie, so layers can be added/removed as needed and the kids seem to run round in only a t-shirt, hardened to the wind. Those who have been here more than a fortnight are all sporting a Falklands tan, brown face and hands and even the babies have bleached blonde hair with brown skin from the strong UV rays. I pledge to be careful in the sun and not let us all turn our skin into luggage leather.

Within a week I had erected makeshift blackouts in our bedroom and the monkey's lair so each morning one emerges from the dark end of the house to a glaringly bright living room - triggering requests of 'make it dark, Mummy!'

Fast forward two weeks to a trip to the beach and the wind is giving me sore eyes and a general feeling of 'get back in the house/car/anything sheltered' quick to escape the gusts. Ironically the wind is strongest when it is sunny and in the middle of the day which does take the edge off the enjoyment of the sunshine a little but the sunsets we can see from our conservatory are to die for.

We step out the door each day and the monkey says 'bit windy today Mummy' or 'bit chilly today Mummy'!

Tips I have been given to adjust to this level of wind are to keep hold of the car door as you open it lest it is ripped out of your hand and bent backwards and to park into the wind. A fellow Mum told me not to delay if the weather is nice and to go out straightaway as it changes so often, so one afternoon when the wind had dropped we shot off to the beach and managed a lovely time building sandcastles, basking and even a spot of paddling (verdict: numbingly cold). Apparently the water temperature does not vary much throughout the seasons here, maybe due to icy Antarctic currents.

Well I must have been resting on my laurels thinking I had adjusted to the sunshine as I am typing this 6 weeks in with a rather hot upper back, scorched from only half an hour in the sun, albeit post-2pm. First reminder to respect the sun's strength.

Thursday 24 February 2011

Migration




The flight wasn't as bad as it might have been although it started badly with a 2 hour delay – the captain said the plane was overweight, which was not comforting news to a worrier like myself, and as they wouldn’t let the crew jettison any cargo,  it was decided to take some fuel off. Er, actually I thought it might be needed seeing as how we were flying halfway across the world. 
Well, we were obliged to stay on the stationary plane throughout this palaver so the monkey did laps of the cabin and tried to engage people into conversation. At one point I overheard the captain on his mobile saying they hadn't got a bowser yet to unload fuel so I retired to my seat for Big Man's turn to chase her around the joint. All this with a toddler approaching two years of age in a frantic state. They got the bowser finally and we heard noises that sounded productive but it was then announced they couldn't remove the fuel after all so we were going to park near the runway til they'd burned off 700 kg. Hmm, not a very ecologically friendly beginning. Perhaps we were partly to blame with 140 kg of luggage and post-Christmas waistlines! As it was at check-in we had been forced to surrender one trunk to freight for following on, owing to the fact that we had exceeded our already extended allowance. The plane was also busier than I had been led to expect as a lot of people were coming back after the holiday period.
The plane was a Boeing 767 with a large moon and stars painted on it, which pleased the monkster. It had a 2 – 3 – 2 seat configuration so pretty typical. No frills is an understatement, although there was nothing actually deficient about it. Things that niggled were the only child on the plane being fed last - not helpful when said child is already fidgeting, no hot towels, one very moody stewardess and not a lot of beverages or snacks (definitely no alcohol). And no chocolate. Enough said I think.
Eventually we became airborne and the monkey relaxed into sleep. Phew. That bought us one hour out of sixteen. When she woke we had num nums which bought us another forty minutes. That’s certainly how it felt at the time. She had fortunately been allocated her own seat between us with a booster which was most welcome although as she was under 2 years of age she wasn’t permitted to sit in it for take-off (had to sit with extension belt on my lap) and definitely wouldn’t want to sleep in it. Happily we were located directly behind the bulkhead so we had ample legroom and some floor space. The next spell of time was spent undertaking cabin laps, colouring and stickers and watching Fifi episodes on the ipod.

We had a panini for supper and stopped at Ascension Island after sunset. The airport terminal was a small, humid compound somewhere in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean with a few wildlife posters scattered on the walls. I was enlightened to read about Ascension being one of several UK territories in the region, including St Helena with its famous plover. The break was most welcome, giving the chance to stretch legs/eat snacks/chain smoke cigars/run amok, depending on your preference. For a small donation to charity, the official put a stamp in our passports but apart from sampling the warmth (25 degrees Celsuis) and moderate humidity, the darkness precluded us actually seeing any of the place so I’m not sure we earned those stamps. On the plus side there was a baby change room with Winnie the Pooh motifs on the walls, which tickled the monkey no end. Looking back perhaps she was starting to take entertainment where she could find it, which hopefully bodes well given the circumstances.
Once back on board we had another panini supper and mainly slept the rest of the flight, dodging in and out of time zones and ultimately taking 30 minutes less than scheduled in order to confuse me no end about the current time and our expected arrival time. Overall we were one hour later than expected. Our landing was bumpy but not too bad.
As we climbed down from the aircraft the first impressions were of darkness, cool driving wind and rain and a moist peaty smell.